The Pretty Bit

Now we enter the Rhine gorge with soaring sides and romantic castles perched on the peaks, with names like Katzen und Maus or Rosencrantz and Guildenstern.

They love their fairytales in Germany and with plenty of little monarchies in the 18th century to pander to the whimsy of their kings, there are lots of hilltop fortresses to site the legends, most of which seem to end tragically, with someone throwing themselves from the battlements.

One thing is sure, with a bike to push I am not going to be visiting any of these hilltop follies. I will sit in the valley and enjoy kaffee und kuchen while I read about them.