In Holland, with all the canals and dykes, you can find yourself stuck at a watery dead end and face the long trudge back to find another round.
Then you see the transport of your dreams, a water bus. It may not be the one featured on the cycling guide (which only runs in peak tourist season) but it must take you somewhere better and then you can work it out from therr
Sunday, 5 May 2019
Thursday, 2 May 2019
Spargelzeit
I have entered Germany at an opportune moment, for we are in the middle of Spargelzeit when the country is committed in its annual effort to remove the asparagus mountain that must be consumed within the next three weeks.
So every restaurant menu is required by law to have at least 4 choices containing the long white shoots. Except they do not always appear as long and white, for I am sure that to move their allocation they hide it in salads, soups and probably even bread.
But every year they achieve their aim, which is one of the benefits of national solidarity, and then sink into communal satisfaction. That is until the shoots raise their disruptive little heads above the ground next year.
So every restaurant menu is required by law to have at least 4 choices containing the long white shoots. Except they do not always appear as long and white, for I am sure that to move their allocation they hide it in salads, soups and probably even bread.
But every year they achieve their aim, which is one of the benefits of national solidarity, and then sink into communal satisfaction. That is until the shoots raise their disruptive little heads above the ground next year.
Canal Plus
If you ever find the need to navigate around a Dutch town then beware of the canals. For they are easily underestimated.
You look on your map or iPhone and decide that if you cross the canal in front of you and turn right then your destination should be just up the road. But that would be a mistake. For the canal in front of you isn't really a canal in Dutch terms. It's more of a side alley.
The canal you really want - the Amsterdam-Lek Canal is 2km away and when you get there you realise your mistake. For this one is a multi-lane highway that would put any British river to shame.
For when it comes to waterways the Dutch, through necessity, don't do their canals by halves.
You look on your map or iPhone and decide that if you cross the canal in front of you and turn right then your destination should be just up the road. But that would be a mistake. For the canal in front of you isn't really a canal in Dutch terms. It's more of a side alley.
The canal you really want - the Amsterdam-Lek Canal is 2km away and when you get there you realise your mistake. For this one is a multi-lane highway that would put any British river to shame.
For when it comes to waterways the Dutch, through necessity, don't do their canals by halves.
Umleitung
European countries have different approaches to cycle paths and this can best be assessed by their attitude to road works.
To get the easy one out the way Britain wouldn't have a cycle lane in the first place. But with the others national commitment is more obvious.
In France they install a cycle lane but then the needs of the car soon takes over. So when several mms out of town and fully committed you face a sign that says "No Cyclists", for this road is far too important. So you are left to your own devices which effectively means "Turn Back".
Now the Germans, if establishing some improvements which mean completely closing the road and associated cycle lane, will advise you to take a diversion via "some local town" wherever that is. The problem is soon solved but involves uncertainty.
As for the Dutch, they have the cyclist's interests at heart, so will have built a dedicated temporary cycle lane to get you over the road works. For they realise that diversion, for the cyclist, means anxiety and effort. So they take that all away.
To get the easy one out the way Britain wouldn't have a cycle lane in the first place. But with the others national commitment is more obvious.
In France they install a cycle lane but then the needs of the car soon takes over. So when several mms out of town and fully committed you face a sign that says "No Cyclists", for this road is far too important. So you are left to your own devices which effectively means "Turn Back".
Now the Germans, if establishing some improvements which mean completely closing the road and associated cycle lane, will advise you to take a diversion via "some local town" wherever that is. The problem is soon solved but involves uncertainty.
As for the Dutch, they have the cyclist's interests at heart, so will have built a dedicated temporary cycle lane to get you over the road works. For they realise that diversion, for the cyclist, means anxiety and effort. So they take that all away.
Permanent Fix
It's so good to be back in Germany. I had forgotten what I had been missing. For this is the country of the permanent new. Even the old is modern.
Don't believe what your eyes are telling you. That building may look medieval but it has all the modern conveniences. Behind the facade it has been updated, several times.
A case in point is Youth Hostels, which currently are something close to my heart, every evening.
In France they are, unfortunately a dying institution except in the major tourist cities. In Britain, they hang in their but mainly built on a long history and aged infrastructure. How many new YH's are their in the UK? OK, besides Cambridge, oh and Newhaven.
But you miss my point. In Germany they build new ones all over the place - in Düsseldorf, Cologne (three of them), plus many of the others look like updated castles.
Not that I am complaining. They are a thriving institution. Business people hold their meetings there, starting at 7.30am. School groups swarm around the breakfast far to get their fill of choco-pops before setting off on their next field trip.
And I sit there using the DJH app to make a booking at the next one 60km up the Rhine.
Don't believe what your eyes are telling you. That building may look medieval but it has all the modern conveniences. Behind the facade it has been updated, several times.
A case in point is Youth Hostels, which currently are something close to my heart, every evening.
In France they are, unfortunately a dying institution except in the major tourist cities. In Britain, they hang in their but mainly built on a long history and aged infrastructure. How many new YH's are their in the UK? OK, besides Cambridge, oh and Newhaven.
But you miss my point. In Germany they build new ones all over the place - in Düsseldorf, Cologne (three of them), plus many of the others look like updated castles.
Not that I am complaining. They are a thriving institution. Business people hold their meetings there, starting at 7.30am. School groups swarm around the breakfast far to get their fill of choco-pops before setting off on their next field trip.
And I sit there using the DJH app to make a booking at the next one 60km up the Rhine.
Vorsprung Durch Tecnik
I know we all now buy Mercedes and Audi's and BMW's because they are built to last with that satisfying 'clunk' when the door shuts.
But all doors shut like that in Germany, not just in cars. At least they do if you can get them open in the first place. For the door to the breakfast room in the Cologne youth hostel (yes, one of the three) has been built to keep out Ottoman invaders. It is so heavy that I needed a the strength of a meal to get on their.
No wonder school children seem to go around in threes. Or else they have to wait looking at the coco-pops through the glass until their friends arrive.
Other countries may call it over-engineered but it will last for years, giving reliable service throughout. Like the car, it's not just there to get you from A-to-B but act as a comforting barrier between you and those on the other side.
But all doors shut like that in Germany, not just in cars. At least they do if you can get them open in the first place. For the door to the breakfast room in the Cologne youth hostel (yes, one of the three) has been built to keep out Ottoman invaders. It is so heavy that I needed a the strength of a meal to get on their.
No wonder school children seem to go around in threes. Or else they have to wait looking at the coco-pops through the glass until their friends arrive.
Other countries may call it over-engineered but it will last for years, giving reliable service throughout. Like the car, it's not just there to get you from A-to-B but act as a comforting barrier between you and those on the other side.
P.s. As another example of this bathrooms now say you cannot use aerosols, for deodorant or hair spray, as this may well trigger the smoke alarm and result in a Euro 1,500 fine for false call out by the fireservice. It makes me very nervous in the bathroom. Perhaps such sensitive alarm sensitivity saves lives but love may be more relaxed if they just turned them down a notch or two.
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