Ever Decreasing Circles - March 23rd

(If you read this please also read the "Breaking News" and "Ralja Update" Blog to get a complete picture.

This is going to be a difficult blog to write. Today was an unmitigated disaster. No, I'm sorry, it's still to raw to talk about. Give me a minute.

OK, that's better. It's now early evening and I am about 15km further on than I was at 11.30 this morning. Since that time I have cycled, Oh about 50kms, in a circle. It's not my fault. OK not all. I should have bought a map of Serbia but the Danube maps I have been using have done just fine, so long as you stick to the route. But I didn't. I caught the train out of Belgrade, like the guide suggested and just needed to link back up with the cycle route.

So I left the station in Ralja and asked someone the way, showing my map and pointing to the route which I wanted to follow. I needed a place called Mala Krsne.

"Take this road" he said comfidently and that's where my problems began. The real issue is that no one in Serbia knows where they live. I must have asked 30 people today for directions. They either had no idea of any village more than 5kms away or else they confidently directed me off to where they thought I wanted to go. But they were wrong. 100% of the time.

And it was hilly, and there were loads of aggressive dogs. I resorted to carrying a rock or two and developing a fierce growl. In the end I resented the people too. They'd debate with each other for ages and still come up with the wrong directions. Then they'd say you are 65kms from there. But I was there just 2 hours ago and even I cannot cycle that fast. Very dispiriting.

In the end, I took matters into my own hands. I ignored their advice, cycled 5kms back down the hills, 10kms along the motorway - illegal I know but needs must - and then over the hills and back down to the Danube, a reassuring site. After all this I got close to where I left the train. But at least now I know where I am.